Virginie Viard Leaves Chanel: Reflecting on 5 Years at the Helm of Creation

The fashion world was shaken on Wednesday, June 5, when Virginie Viard announced her departure as the artistic director of the prestigious French fashion house, Chanel. Having taken the reins after the passing of the legendary Karl Lagerfeld in 2019, Viard spent over 30 years shaping the identity of this luxury brand before ascending to its top creative position.

 

A Delicate Transition

Upon taking the helm at Chanel, Virginie Viard faced the daunting task of succeeding Karl Lagerfeld, an iconic figure in the fashion world. Despite facing criticism and the challenge of proving her legitimacy, Viard adeptly played with Chanel’s codes to create innovative collections infused with the spirit of the house. She celebrated the importance of craftsmanship and haute couture while imprinting her own vision.

 

A Look Back at Five Milestones

1. The Métiers d'Art 2018/2019 Collection

One of the key moments in Virginie Viard’s career at Chanel was the creation and presentation of the Métiers d'Art 2018/2019 collection. Unveiled in December 2018 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, this collection was one of the last she closely collaborated on with Karl Lagerfeld. Celebrating the exceptional craftsmanship of Chanel’s specialized ateliers, the collection paid homage to ancient Egypt, showcasing Viard’s talent for merging history and modernity and solidifying her crucial role in Chanel’s artistic continuity.

 

2. The Cruise 2020 Collection

After many years of assisting Karl Lagerfeld, Virginie Viard presented her first solo collection with the Cruise 2020 line. Held at the Grand Palais in Paris, this collection marked a departure from the Lagerfeld era, offering a more serene and intimate atmosphere. Inspired by the iconic actresses of the 1960s Riviera, the collection featured a relaxed, free-spirited allure with reimagined tweeds, colorful bikinis, jeans, and light-colored leathers. Using fabrics already in the house’s stock, this collection was a step towards sustainable and ethical fashion.

 

3. The Library Set of the Fall-Winter 2020/2021 Haute Couture Collection

For the Fall-Winter 2020/2021 Haute Couture collection, the Grand Palais was transformed into a sumptuous period library. This spectacular yet understated set paid tribute to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s love for literature. The collection, consisting of graphic black-and-white looks, evoked blank pages and scribbled sheets, reflecting the elegance and simplicity dear to the house.

 

4. Cinematic Runway Shows

Virginie Viard also innovated by combining fashion and cinema. With short films directed by filmmakers like Xavier Dolan to present her Métiers d'Art and ready-to-wear collections, she offered an immersive narrative experience. The Métiers d'Art 2023/24 show in Manchester, for which Sofia Coppola created a vibrant and graphic short film, is a notable example.

 

5. The Métiers d'Art Show in Dakar

In December 2022, the Métiers d'Art show in Dakar fused Parisian elegance with Senegalese cultural richness. Held in a historic and symbolic setting, this show highlighted Chanel’s exceptional craftsmanship while celebrating local artistry and innovation. The creations combined tradition and modernity, featuring leather and metal accessories inspired by African arts, underscoring the house’s commitment to diversity and cultural inclusion. 

 

Virginie Viard’s Legacy

These moments illustrate how Virginie Viard made her mark at Chanel while honoring the house’s monumental legacy. Her vision contributed to the ongoing dialogue between tradition and modernity that has characterized Chanel since its founding by Coco Chanel. As Viard steps down, she leaves one of the most coveted positions in the fashion world, having firmly anchored her vision in the history of this iconic house.

Written By Manon Didierlaurent - Photo Credits: WENN